Here is a brief breakdown of how I created this makeup look on my client, Dilara, today;
*Cleanse skin with Bioderma ‘Sensitive’.
*Apply ‘Matte Veil’ by Illamasqua down the centre of the face.
*Then ‘Hydra Veil’ by Illamasqua over the rest of the face.
*Prime eyelid using Kryolan Primer.
*Neturalise the eyelid with Sephora concealer, this will act as a base for the eyeshadow.
*First eyeshadow to apply over the mobile eyelid is ‘Dark Horse’ from Urban Decay Naked 1.
*Over that is ‘Smog’ also from the Naked 1 palette.
*Smoke outwards & upwards using a blending brush, softening through the socket.
*On the inner 1/3 of mobile lid apply ‘St.Topaz’ (Gold) by Coastal Scents.
*Apply ‘Shroom’ by MAC on the inner corner of the eyes for added highlight.
*On the outer corner of the mobile lid apply ‘Black Bear’ eyeshadow by Louise Young.
*Blend lightly at the edge creating more of a smokey eye.
*Through the socket of the eyes apply some matte bronzer or a warm Brown colour.
*Use Bobbi Brown ‘Ink Black’ gel liner on the waterline.
*Clean away fall-down (loose eyeshadow) from under the eyes.
*Highlight & contour using a foundation that’s two shades lighter & two shades darker than your skin tone.
*To do this, use a beauty blender & stipple a foundation that matches your skin tone over the rest of your face as well as the highlight & contour.
*Under lower lashes apply the same eyeshadows as used on top lid.
*Smoke out using a pencil brush.
*Define brows & use a concealer to create a clean defined line under the brows.
*Line top lid using the Black gel liner from Bobbi Brown, and wing it out.
*Apply mascara & lashes - top & bottom.
*Use a Peachy coloured Blush on your cheekbones (Juicy Moods by Kryolan)
*Add some highlight by TheBalm to the highest part of your cheekbone.
*Line lips using ‘StripDown’ by MAC.
*Apply ‘Cherish’ lipstick by MAC.
*Set the foundation down the centre of the face using translucent powder.
I love nude eyeshadows, with a softly defined socket & a hint of shimmer on the lid. It’s the best way to create fresh looking eyes without looking like you’re wearing tons of eyeshadow.
I used Honey Lust mixed with All That Glitters, both by MAC, on the lid up to the socket.
And on the centre of the lid, I placed a touch of Shroom over the top of those colours, also by MAC - this makes the eye appear larger.
Using a Brown gel liner as opposed to a Black one is so much softer. Especially on a mature eyes.
To softly define the socket, I used a matte Brown eyeshadow by Louise Young.
I prefer to use a matte Brown as this sinks the socket where you place the colour, meaning you can create any eye shape you wish.
If you were to use a shimmery Brown it would reflect light, which pulls that area forward, defeating what you are trying to achieve.
Here is a behind the scenes photo of a makeup look I created on model Kate Errington!
I used a variety of vibrant eyeshadow colours from brands such as Sugar Pill, Grimas, No.7 & MAC! It was all about contrasting colours but in a complimentary way. By that I mean using colours such as Yellow against Purple. They contrast due to their colour differences, but are complimentary on the colour wheel. By using colours that are so different, you can create some real eye-catching results, and that’s why I chose to use an electric Blue liquid liner across the eyelid. This liner is by No.7, I do love it but it does stain the skin, so be warned!
2nd image from yesterdays photo-shoot.
After creating a flawless base to Nicole’s skin using Kryolans Micro HD Foundation palette, I then used ‘Woodwinked’ eyeshadow from MAC to enhance her eyes, giving an autumnal feel to the image.
*Model - Nicole Prusinski
*Photography - Martin Higgs
*Makeup - Me